The MKM series extends DSPIAE's soft tip marker format into metallic territory. The formula stays water-based acrylic, the sponge tip stays the same, but the pigment is metallic, and that changes both what you can achieve and how the application behaves. Getting a consistent metallic sheen with a conventional brush takes practice; the sponge tip format tends to produce a more even result with less effort, especially on smaller surface areas where brush strokes would otherwise show.

The 8-color range covers practical ground: MKM-01 Metallic Black, MKM-02 Metallic Silver, MKM-03 Metallic Red, MKM-04 Metallic Blue, MKM-05 Metallic Green, MKM-06 Metallic Gold, MKM-07 Metallic Grey, and MKM-08 Metallic Purple. That covers the majority of metallic accent work on a typical mecha model kit. MKM-02 Silver and MKM-06 Gold handle thruster bells, verniers, and weapon highlights; MKM-01 Metallic Black and MKM-07 Metallic Grey sit well on inner frame and joint areas where you want a subtle sheen rather than a full chrome hit. The colored metallics hit hard when a kit design calls for them.

Metallic pigments read better over a smooth base surface, so a light sand or primer coat before application makes a visible difference in how evenly the metallic sits. Avoid pressing hard or going back over wet paint repeatedly, as this disturbs the metallic flake and can leave streaks. Light, deliberate passes work better. The DSPIAE Universal Eraser Pen corrects fresh mistakes cleanly without disturbing surrounding areas. When you're done, seal with a gloss or semi-gloss top coat, as a flat varnish will deaden the metallic effect significantly.

These complement the MK basic color markers and sit between the MK line and the MKA super metallic markers in the DSPIAE range. If you need a fully water-based workflow from start to finish, MKM handles the metallic side of that cleanly. For heavier coverage or true super-metallic intensity with a precision nylon tip, MKA is the step up.

How to Use

Wipe the part clean of any grease or fingerprints before you start, as this matters more with metallics than with flat colors since anything on the surface will disrupt how the metallic particles sit. From there, the MKM works like any conventional marker or brush: apply directly, keep your strokes light and even, let each layer dry fully before adding the next, and build up coverage gradually. Metallic pigments respond well to thin, patient layering and poorly to heavy single-coat applications, so don't try to rush it.

If you want a tighter, more durable finish, lightly sand the area with 1000 to 2000 grit first, then clean away every trace of dust before applying the marker. The sanded surface improves the paint's mechanical grip considerably and gives the metallic a more consistent, even look. It does mean the paint absorbs more into the surface, so expect to build up extra layers to reach the same depth. It is a longer process, though some builders find the extra prep satisfying and enjoy working that way. Seal with a gloss or semi-gloss top coat once dry, as flat varnish will dull the sheen significantly. Any overruns correct cleanly with the DSPIAE Universal Eraser Pen while the paint is still wet.

If you've been airbrushing, MKM markers are a great way to handle the last metallic details that are too small or fiddly to mask for the airbrush. Thruster bell edges, small vernier rings, tight panel accents on joints: these are the spots where masking takes longer than the actual painting, and where a marker gives you far more control. Since the formula is acrylic and water-based, applying MKM over airbrushed acrylic paints causes no reaction whatsoever.