Scribers are one of those tools where the difference between a good one and a great one becomes obvious the first time you pull a clean line across a panel. The Samawangu SAB Panel Liner sits firmly in the great category. Each chisel is made individually by hand in Korea, not batch-produced by machine, going through multiple production steps by craftsmen with over 20 years of experience in the process. The blade is cemented carbide, which is harder and more resistant to wear than standard steel, meaning you get sharper lines for longer. The stainless-steel handle is resistant to corrosion and deformation, and it comes wrapped in shrink tubing so you can swap grip material to suit your preference. SAB blades are compatible with SAB holders and with BMC chisel holders, so if you already have a handle you like, the blade drops right in.

The standard range covers 18 sizes from 0.075mm up to 4.0mm: 0.075mm, 0.1mm, 0.125mm, 0.15mm, 0.2mm, 0.25mm, 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm, 0.6mm, 0.7mm, 0.8mm, 0.9mm, 1.0mm, 1.5mm, 2.0mm, 3.0mm, and 4.0mm. That kind of range lets you work across scales and use size combinations intentionally, for example pairing a finer size for tight detail lines with a wider one to add depth and shadow on the same kit. There are no absolute rules for which sizes pair with which grade, and plenty of experienced builders mix unconventionally on purpose. That said, if you are just getting started with panel line scribing and want a practical starting point, here is what we recommend at Mecha Universe as a general guide:

• HG kits: 2 from the fine group (0.1mm / 0.15mm / 0.2mm) and 1 from the medium group (0.4mm / 0.5mm / 0.6mm)
• MG kits: 2 from the fine group (0.15mm / 0.2mm / 0.3mm) and 1 from the medium group (0.6mm / 0.7mm)
• PG kits: 2 from the fine group (0.2mm / 0.3mm / 0.4mm) and 1 from the larger group (0.7mm / 0.8mm)

If you are picking just one size to start, 0.15mm or 0.2mm is a solid choice because it works well across nearly all Gunpla model kits regardless of grade. From there you can expand based on what you are actually building. But at the end of the day, it is your model. Gunpla is Freedom.

Separate from the standard flat-cut range, SAB also offers the Zero 1 and Zero 2, which are a different kind of tool entirely. Instead of a flat chisel profile, they have a triangular point that cuts a beveled V-groove into the surface. That shape makes them particularly effective on curved surfaces, round parts, and ball or circular geometry where a standard flat chisel struggles to follow the contour without slipping. They can be used as a standalone scribing tool, or as a first pass that establishes a clean path for a standard SAB chisel to follow afterwards. Width is controlled by repetition: the more passes you make, the wider the groove gets. From there you play with ink quantity to decide how much you fill it, giving you another layer of control over the final visual weight of the line. Zero 2 is slightly wider and thicker than Zero 1, so the choice between them comes down to the scale and geometry of what you are working on.

How to use the SAB Panel Liner

Before you pick up a chisel, it helps to know what you are actually trying to do, because the approach changes depending on the situation. There are two main scenarios: deepening existing panel lines that are already molded into the kit, or scribing new lines from scratch on a flat surface.

If you are deepening existing lines, you are in the easier of the two cases. The groove is already there, so the chisel has a path to follow. Our staff finds that the Zero 1 and Zero 2 work particularly well here: the triangular point sits naturally into the existing groove and deepens it cleanly without requiring a guide. Very light passes are still the way to go, letting the tool follow the molded line rather than forcing it.

If you are scribing from scratch on a flat surface, that is where guides become essential. Scribing freehand is possible but very unforgiving. For straight lines, a wider scribing guide is always recommended since it gives the chisel more surface to lean against and keeps the stroke stable all the way through. For curves, round sections, and circular parts, thin scribing guide tape is your best friend since it follows the contour without lifting. Scribing templates, like the ones from Gunprimer, are also an excellent option here: they come in a variety of curve shapes and radii, they are fast to set up, and they take a lot of the guesswork out of getting consistent results on rounder geometry. More advanced builders do use a metal ruler for straight lines, but that takes some practice to control well, so it is worth getting comfortable with the basics first.

Either way, start with very light passes. The biggest mistake with a new scriber is pressing too hard on the first stroke thinking it will save time. It won't. A very light first pass scores the surface and gives the chisel a groove to follow on the next pass. From there you build depth gradually, letting the tool do the work rather than forcing it. Three or four controlled passes will get you a clean, consistent line without stressing the plastic.

Keep the chisel moving in one direction where possible, pulling it toward you rather than pushing. Pushing increases the risk of the tip catching and skipping, which can dig into the surface in the wrong place. Short, controlled strokes are more reliable than trying to cover a long line in one go.

Zero 1 and Zero 2

For the Zero 1 and Zero 2, the technique is slightly different from a standard flat chisel. Because the triangular point cuts a V-groove, you are not just deepening a channel, you are also widening it slightly with each pass. Let the point follow the natural shape of the surface rather than forcing a straight path. Once you have the groove where you want it, you can follow it with a standard flat chisel if you want a wider, flat-bottomed line, or leave the bevel as-is and control the final look purely through ink application.

Once scribing is done, clean the groove before panel lining. A quick pass with a soft brush or a dry cotton swab removes plastic dust that would otherwise mix with the ink and leave a muddy finish. Then apply your panel line ink or wash of choice, let it flow into the groove, and wipe back the excess. The cleaner the scribed line, the cleaner the result.

Safety notice

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